Labrang Monastery : An Adventure in Gansu Province, China
- Kevin
- 5 hours ago
- 5 min read
Missed Opportunity !
I had planned to arrive in time for the Monlam Festival - but mixed up my Gregorian and Tibetan calendars and had missed it by two weeks - doh ! I'll return another time for sure.
With that initial excitement, and motivation for visiting the monastery, deflated I decided I just wanted to make the best of it - and Labrang was so much fun and so interesting that not once did I feel depressed with my having missed the festival.
The lovely valley and this colossal monastery (home to 64 temples) with many pilgrims visiting every day, made for some incredible images and unique cultural experiences.
The contrast of the snow in and around the valley and colours of the monastery: red and yellow of the monks and orange structures, made for wonderful colour contrasts.
Anyway ! Welcome to Gansu Province, China—home to Labrang Monastery, a paradise for photographers of a certain ilk (me!), spiritual seekers, and anyone with a penchant for bright colours and deep philosophical debates. Picture this: a sprawling monastery nestled among lofty mountains (watch the video above!), where the air is thick with incense and the sound of melodious chants fills your ears. On this my latest photographic escapade, I had the pleasure (and sometimes sheer bewilderment) of photographing red-cloaked monks sporting the iconic yellow headgear I'd hoped to see at the festival but was, happily, still on display during their normal daily activities.
Labrang Monastery was founded in 1709 and has since become one of the most important centres of Tibetan Buddhism outside of Tibet. In simpler terms, it’s where the monks go to study, pray, and make the rest of us question our life choices. The moment you arrive, you’re enveloped in a tapestry of colours—turquoise skies, red robes, and mystical prayer banners fluttering atop mystical temples.
The Red Cloaks and Yellow Headgear
Let’s talk about those monks in their glorious red cloaks and yellow headgear. Their outfits had a very practical application too - it was down to -14C whilst I was there (especially around dawn - which is when I found the monks engaged in a 2 hour long ritual, outdoors. I loved them !
While taking photographs, I found myself with a perturbing dialogue in my head : “Capture the scene ... but don’t get caught being a creepy tourist” ! Spoiler alert: I failed spectacularly in both of those missions.
The gallery below was shot in B&W on the OM-3 camera and all with my favourite OM 20/1.4 lens. I love the look from these Art jpgs in this new camera! Other gear used throughout the week-long trip was : OM System : OM-1i and OM-3 cameras. Lenses : Laowa 6mm and 10mm, OM 12-40/2.8 Pro, OM 20/1.4 Pro, OM 45/1.2 Pro, OM 75.1.8 and OM 40-150/2.8 Pro. Sony : A7r5 + Samyang 85/1.4, 45/1.8 and 24/1.8. DJI Mini Pro 3 drone (stills & video) DJI Pocket 3 (video)
iPhone 15 Pro (video)
Observing the Pilgrims : A Exhibition of Devotion
Nestled in the heart of Tibet’s Amdo region, Labrang Monastery is one of the 6 most important Tibetan Buddhist sites outside Lhasa. Western visitors to the monastery, such as myself, are struck by the profound devotion of the pilgrims who have journeyed from distant villages all over China. I found watching them to be a humbling experience that calmed the soul. It's a glimpse into a spirituality that permeates every aspect of their lives. I had the same feeling of calmness and reverence when visiting the incredible Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi or the many churches I've photographed in Italy and Spain.
The pilgrims move in a slow (and sometimes not so slow!), rhythmic procession around the monastery’s sacred path which is over 4 kms long kora. Some clutch prayer beads, most of their lips are murmuring mantras, repeating the same words over and over. Almost all are spinning the rows of prayer wheels that line the route, each turn believed to release blessings into the world. The prayer wheel circuit at Labrang Monastery is the longest in the world, about 3 kms (2 miles) in total! There are more than 2,000 prayer wheels, and it takes more than an hour to turn all the wheels that run along 3 sides of the monastery perimeter.
However most conspicuous, and fascinating, are those performing the full-body prostrations, called the Kyangcha Prostration. As they kneel, then stretch forward, and laying flat on the ground in a gesture of complete surrender, all the while chanting mantras.
Their hands, almost always clad in wooden blocks to protect against the many times they slide along the rough stones, glide forward as they rise and repeat the motion, every 3 steps, around the entire monastery. Some take days to complete the circuit (in between resting, eating, sleeping and I noticed socialising with fellow devout pilgrims), even their foreheads bearing calluses from touching the earth countless times. I particularly noticed them when strolling around at night and at dawn looking for photographic subjects, when they were still there, sometimes resting or drinking hot tea, before they continued on their 'insanely' arduous pilgrimage.
Their dedication is awe-inspiring. How can someone be so dedicated to perform this act for kilometre after kilometre is mind-boggling. In Tibet, when they do this on the route to Mount Kailash, it can take them weeks to complete! I like the saying I read, that for these pilgrims, faith is not passive; it is lived through physical endurance, repetition, and deep reverence. In a world that often values speed and convenience, their unwavering commitment is a powerful reminder of the enduring human search for meaning beyond the material. Regardless of your personal beliefs.
The Drone Perspective
I love flying a drone to capture aerial views that give unique perspectives - they are quite unlike anything that a human can otherwise experience without flight.
Some of these idiosyncratic visuals can give stunning views of the monastery's size and located as it is in a beautiful valley surrounded by snow clad mountains.
Reflecting on the trip :
It was interesting to reflect on my personal reflections on the monks’ (and pilgrims) disciplined way of life and dedication. I was going on from here to other, iconic, locations in Gansu province, but this trip and the people I saw, met and photographed, will remain with me.
There was a peace & mindfulness I felt through my observations and by just being present.
Labrang Monastery isn't just about the monks (though photographically that was a major reason for traveling there); it's also an architectural wonder. The intricate designs, bright colours, and the amazing prayer wheels and stupas provided a constant feast for my eyes and the camera, a visual overload from dawn until dusk !
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